7.30.2018

30: envelope of delights...

we recently discovered a restaurant right here in Montreal that does a phenomenal job at making one of my absolute favorite foods on the planet, i present to you, the humble roti


this one requires a bit of background, with just a hint of history and a splash of geography for good measure. to begin with, i am using the term roti as it applies to Caribbean food culture. in that setting, it is a wrap-type sandwich (similar to a burrito) which consists of a thin outer bread layer that is wrapped around an assortment of curried vegetables and meats. the contents are limited only by the maker's imagination.  

however, the name of the dish is ultimately derived from the (east) Indian roti, which is the name for the super-thin flatbread itself. in fact, the whole dish is a reflection of the influx of East Indian workers into the region during colonial times, and continuing up through the mid twentieth century. 

full disclosure: part of my extended family—including one of my grandparents—is of Indian descent. however, you do not have to go digging through anyone's family tree to recognize the influence of Indian culture in just about every facet of Caribbean life, and this one dish may just be the single best culinary representation of that influence.

every part of the Caribbean has their own take on a roti, and every eater has their personal preference as to how it should be served. while some form of curried meat (chicken, lamb, goat, shrimp) is considered part of the standard filling, i have had some amazing rotis that were filled with such a tasty assortment of curried vegetables, potato, and chickpeas (which i absolutely love) that you would not miss the meat. 

full disclosure... this is NOT considered to be "posh food". you are far more likely to find the best rotis being sold from a food truck or a hole-in-the-wall type restaurant. it is a meal that is designed to be eaten on the go, which is probably why it is usually sold tightly wrapped in parchment-type paper.


this is the "neat" side...


flip it over to reveal of the ends, which are neatly folded and tucked to form an edible envelope of delights. i did not want to risk making a mess by unfolding it any further, as i can never seem to return it to to the starting position.


you will occasionally come across someone who tries to impress anyone who might be watching by discarding said wrapping paper, and eating it with a knife and fork. however, among us far-less-pretentious types, it is  most convenient to unwrap it just enough to take a few bites...


then just continue to 'unwrap and eat', until done. that wrapping paper may be the only thing keeping a generously-stuffed roti from unraveling, and curry stains are for life. ask me how i know.


it should be noted, if i am being completely honest, that this is one of the few dishes i am genuinely afraid of making at home. it is not because of the filling. i have been making curries since i was like eight years old. i could manage that part with both eyes closed. the intimidation factor is all about the dough.

let me give you a bit of perspective so you can better understand this fear. you would need to stack at least five or six of those roti flat-breads together to reach the thickness of a pita bread. crazier still, it is traditionally made from a multi-layered dough, and you can usually peel away one tissue-thin layer after another. 

do you see that crumbly yellow stuff lurking right under the surface of the bread? that is a mixture of ground, spiced split-peas... and it is in between the layers of the dough... and all of those layers together are only a fraction of the thickness of a pita. 


i love a culinary challenge, but i lack the patience to work with such thin dough. but now i do not have to even try, because the Curry House is just a short drive away from my door. my life in Canada finally makes sense. 

oh, in my excitement... i almost forgot the sign. yep... it definitely makes sense. 


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